Sewing

Cowl Neck Dress V.3 AKA Welcome to Cowl Hell!

Hi all! I am back this week with a new dress. As fall is really here, I realized I wanted to have some more cold weather options. So, I set out to purchase some thicker knit fabrics at the yearly Fall fabric market, which was allowed to continue with 1/2 the amount of stalls due to coronavirus measures.

Lots of stalls have started a websop too in these times, so I am able to link everything I purchased!

I didn’t purchase as many fabrics as I would normally do on a fabric market, but I am still happy with my haul.

I knew I wanted to try another cowl pattern, as I was unhappy with how deep the one is on my hot pink dress. So, I drafted another with the instructions by Threads Magazine. You slash and spread the pattern in this way to make a drapy cowl.

Then you add a facing, which is sort of a copy of the neckline but mirrored. This will make the cowl drape better and not show the white inside of the fabric. If you would have a plain fabric that is dyed through, you probably can get away wih a normal hem.

Everything fit pretty well on the 2,5 meters I purchased, there was enough for a wide skirt too.

Here’s the center front panel showing the cowl neck.

And here’s the facing, folded inward and matching up with the shoulder seam. Pretty neat!

I used the serger on most seams, but here I am just topstitching the facing edge down.

The skirt is 2 gathered rectangles of both 1.40 meters wide. I always use two gathering rows as it makes the gathers more even in my opinion.

I’m skipping over quite a bit but you’ve all seen me set in sleeves and sew princess seams, right? Here I am showing the waist elastic that I stitched to the bodice with a zigzag stitch (it barely shows on the dark fabric). This supports the weight of the skirt, which is quite heavy as it’s 2.80 meters wide!

After chopping 8 cm off the sleeves, I hemmed the sleeves and skirt, and I tried it on – it looked horrible! The skirt was so heavy it pulled the whole cowl down, resulting in no drapy cowl neckline and an uneven waist seam. The waist elastic helped a little, but not enough. In other words, my cowl neck pattern failed me again…

I decided to stitch another piece of elastic straight down the center front, and I ended up really liking this option. You can barely see it here, tho!

Overall I am not super unhappy with this dress, but I am giving up on this type of cowl neck. Next time I will draft a separate cowl to stitch to a normal neckline. I’ve already begun drafting and looking for more fabrics online LOL!

I also made some really cute masks out of this quilting cotton with little thread spools on them. Aren’t they adorable!

And of course I made some spooky masks too as it is October!

Thanks again for reading,

~ Mardie

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