Hi everyone! Here is a skirt I finished over the weekend. I’ve been using a sewing journal since last month and I thought it was fun to share that with you here.
This page shows the general setup of every project in my sewing journal. On the left page is a sketch of the project, fabric samples and a material list. On the right I keep track of measurements, which pattern I use and what modifications I make. As someone with different projects running next to each other I really like how this helps me keep track of everything!
The pattern I chose is skirt 103 from Knipmode March 2019. The skirt is not available outside of the pattern magazine so I have no sample. I drafted my own waistband, as I dislike the rectangular waistband some of Knipmode’s patterns have. As a big girl they just never suit me! Luckily drafting a waistband is really easy. Here is the tutorial I used for it.
Instead of sewing the entire skirt on the serger, I chose to serge all edges with 3 threads and finish it on the machine. The reasons for this is that I am making this skirt for the first time and want to be able to make adjustments if needed. The other reason is because I’m putting in side seam pockets and a lapped zipper, and a serger makes those two things much harder than needed.
I used seam tape to stabilize the seams of the pocket opening. The fabric has a little bit of stretch so this prevents the pocket opening from sagging.
[No picture] I stitched, pressed and understitched the side seam pockets to the front panel. Sadly the picture came out really blurry but you can use this tutorial if you are looking for tips on how to stitch your own side seam pocket.
I stitched the pockets and the side seam, and pressed them flat.
I pinned the pleats in place and gave them a quick press.
I stitched the side seams of the inner and outer waistband. The inner waistband has been interfaced with H180 fusible interfacing to prevent sagging.
I stitched the outer, non-interfaced waistband to the skirt, matching the side seams. It fit perfectly as I used the skirt’s hip measurements to draft the waistband so I’d have the same amount of pattern ease.
Then it was time for the lapped zipper. The decision was made 100% because I couldn’t find the invisible zipper I purchase for this project. If you go back to the picture of my sewing journal you’ll notice I did put an invisible zipper down on the material list!
I used this tutorial to stitch the lapped zipper. I am not very experienced with the technique so I had to unpick once and try it again. Also I just couldn’t figure out how to do the top.
The idea is to stitch the right side of the zipper to the right side of the zipper opening. The left seam allowance will become the strip of fabric that folds over the zipper, hiding it completely. I felt like this was much easier to do with my 1.5cm seam allowance.
The left strip of fabric is then stitched like this to the left side of the zipper. As you can see I really struggled with this. It looks like I have much less space than the video.
In the end it did look really good after topstitching!
The inner waistband attached to the outer waistband.
I understitched the waistband, both for stabilizing and a neat finish.
Now I felt like I should have left 1.5cm space on top of the zipper for a hook and loop closure. It looks really strange in real life (see pictures later). But I didn’t feel like unpicking again so I’m just going to deal with it LOL
I whip stitched the inner waistband to the zipper for a neat finish.
I hung the skirt overnight and measured the hem with my skirt hemmer. Then I leveled the hem with my serger, turned it over once and stitched it down with a straight stitch. You can’t see it here but after ~45cm I did end up switching to my walking foot because the hem was shifting.
And it’s finished! No worn pics yet as I was wearing a dress with no undershirt so that wouldn’t make for a nice fitting pic. I will add one later this week.
Overall I am pretty pleased with my skirt. I thought it would be a quick project, but the zipper problems added a full hour to my sewing time. In the end I did learn a thing or two and I wrote down my suggestions for the next skirt.
The waist band I drafted is really flattering (although I will lower it by 1 – 1.5cm for the next skirt). I will definitely use this pattern for some more simple skirts, but I will definitely use an invisible zipper then!
Thanks again for reading,