Last month, I scored this amazing jersey with (I was told after buying it) physics formulas. My friend @femmelot is a math teacher and I thought it would be fun to surprise her with a “math” dress for her upcoming birthday!
We have similar sizes so I used my own base pattern with a few adjustments. I sized the bust back down from I to DD cup, and I made the sleeves slightly wider and longer.
I also made an initial swayback adjustment for her, but I ended up taking it in by another 2 cm. This is why you will see here that I did not cut the center back panel on the fold. Of course you can do the swayback adjustment with the side back princess seams, but the pattern is really busy so you can barely see the center back seam after all.
Panels serged together. The fabric is very fiddly, I believe it is 95% spandex 5% elastane? I put the differential feed of the serger to 1.75 and the seams did not stretch.
Second step was shoulder seams, side seams and sleeves. After this I wanted to wait for a fitting before I did the neckline. As a teacher the neckline should be conservative! Here you can see the neck is really small. I made it like a T-shirt crew neck just to be sure!
Princess seams are a really flattering type of dart, and it’s especially easy to use when making a garment for someone else. You can really get the modifications perfect by tweaking the princess seams.
I did a quick fit on myself and it was looking good length-wise. Then I had @femmelot come in for a fitting and I had to change a few things. I took in the bust by 1 cm to a D instead of DD cup. The neckline was too high so I lowered it by ~ 3 cm. The back was then taken in by another ~ 2 cm for the swayback adjustment. Then I marked the hem, and I had to remove ~ 3m in the center front. The back was pretty much perfect after the final swayback adjustment.
Hemmed a small double hem of 2 cm and stitched it down with twin needles.
Added the neck band with the serger and also stitched it down with my twin needles. I also did the same on the sleeves (no picture).
Close-up of the twin needle stitching. Oh I wish I had a coverlock one day!
The finished garment! I already gifted it a month in advance because it was finished and the weather has been so good to us lately. @femmelot was very happy with the dress! For us bigger girls it’s not just a problem to find cute clothes that fit, but also ones that are long enough to properly ride a bike in, being Dutch and all! So making my own clothing makes sure that I can pick my perfect garment length!
Thanks again for reading,